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Why have my Permanent Makeup / Microblading PMU Brows Turned Red, Pink or Orange.
Permanent makeup, also known as cosmetic tattooing or micropigmentation, has gained popularity for its ability to enhance facial features. However, over time, some people may notice that their permanent makeup turns red or takes another undesirable hue such as pink or orange. Understanding the causes behind this colour change is crucial for both practitioners and clients to set realistic expectations. The practitioner giving you realistic expectations is also known as Informed Consent which is a legal right of a consumer.
The Nature of PMU Pigments
One of the primary reasons for permanent makeup turning red is the nature of the pigments used. Permanent makeup pigments are composed of a blend of various colourants, including inorganic and organic pigments. Over time, these pigments can break down or be metabolised by the body. This is not necessarily a bad thing. Permanent Makeup was never intended to be PERMANENT and fading is normal and should be expected. However, new generation pigments are essentially PERMANENT and you need to be informed about this before having PMU done. More information HERE.
- Inorganic Pigments: These are typically iron oxides, which are more stable and tend to fade to a greyish or bluish tone as they break down.
- Organic Pigments: These pigments, while offering a vibrant range of colours, can be less stable and more prone to fading into reddish hues due to their composition.
The red undertones in the pigment formula become more apparent as the other colours fade or break down.
Most pigments on the market are a combination of Organic and Inorganic elements. Both are safe and very misunderstood. Inorganic ingredients like Titanium generally come from the earth so you would expect them to be called ORGANIC..but..NOOOO
To make things even more confusing, the bright colours that you see in Organic pigments are mainly made in a Laboratory. It’s safe to say there is nothing Organic about Organic pigments.
Sun Exposure and UV Radiation in PMU Fading
Sun exposure is another major factor contributing to the colour change. UV radiation can break down pigments, particularly those in the organic category, causing them to degrade unevenly. This degradation can reveal underlying red or pink tones that were initially mixed with other colours to create the desired shade.
It is essential for clients to use sun protection on their treated areas, even long after the initial application. This can help slow down the fading process and preserve the original colour balance. However, it won’t stop the natural fading process. Sun screen will give you a longer life span to brows.
Skin Type and Composition
The skin type and composition can also affect how the pigment behaves over time. Oily skin types, for instance, may cause pigments to fade faster and more unevenly compared to dry skin types. The natural undertones of the skin can also play a role.
For example, someone with a warm or yellow undertone may notice their permanent makeup turning red or orange as the pigment fades, whereas those with cooler undertones might see a shift towards blue or grey or orange.
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Application Depth of your PMU
The depth at which the pigment is applied during the procedure is another critical factor. If the pigment is implanted too deeply into the skin, it can migrate or change colour as it interacts with the body’s natural fluids such as blood. Shallower applications tend to fade faster but may retain their original colour longer. However, if the pigment is placed too shallow, it can be more prone to fading due to exfoliation and other surface-level skin processes.
It’s a bit of a darn if you do and darn if you don’t. What we need to consider is that when we signed up to have Permanent Makeup or Microblading, we signed up to work that will fade and will change colours in the process.
Chemical Interactions with PMU and Microblading
Over time, the pigments can interact with various chemicals, whether from skincare products, pollution, or the body’s own chemistry. Certain skincare ingredients, like retinoids or acids, can accelerate the breakdown of pigment, revealing the underlying red tones.
This doesn’t mean that the change of the colour wouldn’t have happened eventually. It just meant that excessive exposure to chemical will accelerate the fading.
Touch-Ups and PMU Maintenance
Regular touch-ups are often necessary to maintain the desired appearance of permanent makeup. When you sign up to have Permanent Makeup or Microblading you are signing up to having regular maintenance. However, if touch-ups are not done correctly or if they use pigments that do not match the original application, this can lead to colour changes, including the development of red tones.
What does regular PMU/Microblading Maintenance looks like?
There are two roads that you can take to keep your Permanent Makeup looking fresh.
- Regular top up roughly every 2 years. Provided that the pigment molecules have broken down in your skin, this can be done indefinitely. However, if your skin becomes overly saturated to the point where top ups can no longer be done, then removal is your only option.
- Removal of PMU is often needed because of the above reason but also because you simply may have outgrown the shape or just not want it anymore.
When having permanent makeup done, you care signing up to one of the two above posibilities.
The Role of the Practitioner in PMU
The expertise of the practitioner plays a significant role in the longevity and stability of permanent makeup colour. A skilled practitioner will carefully choose the pigment, taking into account the client’s skin tone, type, and desired outcome, to minimise the risk of unwanted colour changes. The most important aspect is that an experienced practitioner will have been working with a colour line for years, sometimes decades, and will be able to give you accurate information because they have seen the changes.
Please be very weary of practitioner that are using this wonderful new permanent makeup pigment that just came out and it’s wonderful like nothing that has ever been seen before in the world of microblading. IF IT’S NEW THEY DON’T KNOW HOW IT AGES OR HOW IT REACTS UNDER THE LASER. If you can feel anger in my tone, yes it was anger.
Be weary of new generation pigments
I have written extensively on why allowing yourself to be tattooed with new generation pigments is a bad idea. All of the above explanations apply mostly to traditional pigments. New Generation Pigments are PERMANANENT and turn RED and YELLOW under the laser which are nearly impossible to remove.
Is Permanent Makeup Really Permanent
Which Permanent Makeup Pigment is the Best
Permanent makeup turning red over time is a common occurrence influenced by various factors, including pigment composition, sun exposure, skin type, and the application process. Understanding these factors will help in managing expectations and ensuring long-lasting, satisfactory results. For those experiencing unwanted colour changes, consulting with a qualified practitioner for a touch-up or laser removal with someone like me, can help restore the desired appearance. Regular maintenance and protective measures, such as sun protection, are essential in preserving the vibrancy and accuracy of permanent makeup.
